Prepping for the climb

Kilimanjaro is a volcanic massif that's located in the northeastern part of Tanzania. Its ridiculously close to the Kenyan border, nevertheless, the gate I've entered through lies in Tanzania. I would rest my hat in TZ simply because I have placed my trust in G Adventures, Canadian company chosen to organize my Kili trek. They seemed to have done their research and are reputable. By my estimate, trails entering through TZ are more scenic than others, therefore seem far more enjoyable. Accessibility and safety on my mind (never doubte safety while in the hands of staff), 'twas worth every penny. The summit is what I came here for in the first place, some of that added 'awesomeness' you would expect along the way would be gravy.  Was all that I had hoped for by the end of the trek (some more)

A note about G Adventures... they outsource to a Tanzanian outfitter that goes by the name of 'Zara Tours'. We were left to the exceptional service of their staff. The owner of Zara Tours (a  Canadian interestingly) owns Springlands Hotel, which, if truth be told, I'd go directly to this TZ outfitter if I had to do it all over again. (Interestingly, I met her brother in Moshi who helps out and who is here visiting from Mississauga, On... oh what a small world.)

After a few weeks saying I would not attempt the Machame trail again, I would do it over and over again. One small rock face was frightful but I was in good hands of a great guide. There are many other mountainscapes to drool over now around the globe so to other beauties :-)... Kili was undeniably an incredible experience one could not get enough of in one lifetime (unless you ask a porter...he'd say otherwise )

my trusted guide...

 I have to say one more good word about Zara Tours, the staff, their attention to each one of us,  peaked my interest right from the start. It totally climaxed when Ben (assistant guide) pulled out a thermos and served me a hot cup of tea on the 'Roof of Africa' (thanks to Ben).  Again,  Servizio eccezionale!

About this mountain, one of the most fascinating facts is being able to  experience virtually every ecosystem on earth – glacier, snowfields, deserts, alpine moorland, savannah, and tropical jungle. Just a few days back before our team departed for the Machame trail, I had spoken to one of many arrivals, still faces glowing from the mountain. They spent the last week of May at higher altitudes and were dealt with less than ideal conditions. The experience differed with each group as they arrived one day after the other. I had notebook in one hand, pen in the other, and bottle of Serengeti in front of me. It was uncommon to have a trekker stay at Kili for a fortnight, the week at the hotel was just for my amusement. The trekkers were knowingly providing me with an oral interview and especially on the last night, I would pay particular attention to the weather conditions on the mountain. The last group informed me that they had experienced 3 straight days &nights of pouring rain.  Their level of morale was, by the end of their trek, still good (by my estimates.) It was aided by the fact that most of the group did summit, certificate in hand from one  proud Aussie. The Irish guy,a bit disgruntled for reaching close but almost - Stella Point a major feat 5756m!  A quick pat on the back from his team mate, both reached for their beer and were all cheery again... Did I say he was Irish? We were all Irish that night :-) 

So daydreaming @ the hotel inevitably came to an dramatic end, I was fully prepared for what lay ahead of me. A week of miserable rain and muddy conditions for early June on Mount kilimanjaro... what more can a girl ask for! I was definitely well packed for it, inclement weather and all.

  

As our first day unfolded, the unexpected DID NOT happen -it rained and my expensive hiking boots were a horror to look at from start to finish. Miraculously, Kili gave us a break the next morning -yes!  For the rest of trek, each day including summit day,  we enjoyed the hot scorching sun, some light wind, mix of sun and clouds. It was a slam dunk! Luck was on our side.  I couldn't dream of a more perfect condition for climbing from Day 2 to 7!

Geez, it has already been 35 nights since I've arrived in Toronto from my solo african adventure.
Even longer since I've breathed in fresh air from mount kilimanjaro... or blogged... catch up time~

Mosquitos and Insomnia

So its the second last night here in Moshi before the climb


Here is my leg in full tropical attire (tons of mosquito bites keeping me indoors whenever not on a day tour or hike...its feels worse than it looks btw). I got a whole bunch more when I sneaked out late tonight (after taking this picture)  for an easily-prepared dinner of toast with tomato and cheese. Quite a few climbers that are coming to the hotel tonight, others leaving tomorrow are  braving a bottle of beer or two outside as well. Wonder what they'll be thinking tomorrow, same time? 

What I should have been wearing are my gators and socks. day in and day out -all week long

As for my battle with Insomnia this week...


Most of the day I would hear the call to prayer which would resonate loud and clear for a good km sq.  In the wee hours of every morning, chanting started precisely at 4am straight through to 5:45am. What is interesting is that there are about 3 chants going on at the same time in this random unison. Two chants are so calming, but one chant usually becomes more of a strong delivery of words and not melodious at all, sort of a paternal command so unless I was dead tired from a full day hiking off the slopes of Kili, I would be tossing and turning, not sure how else to fall asleep. I'm a super light sleeper which means, when I hear the occasional cockerel cock-a-doodle-doing thing happens or there is talking or chanting,  I could never sleep through it.So that's the way it went for most nights, eyes staring up at the ring that joins the seam of the mosquito net so it can stream down and around my bed.
 But, on the upside, those sorts of nights would be soon forgotten the very next day because I'm back in bed after breakfast for a full day of daylight sleeping, all while others are tanning or reading leisurely by the poolside. But at least I'm not having more visitors that want to bite me during the day :-) 


 Somehow I dealt with the tropics, culture shock brilliantly this week but what I really need now is to get on with the show!!! Tomorrow I'm going to find out who's I'm sharing a tent with so that I can have first say which side of the tent I'll be sleeping on. 


What I think I use to be (sorry dad but...)

What I think I'm suppose to be (my mom is going to just love me!)

Super good and feeling fine. Time to go kiss the sky.

Ndoro Falls -Marangu, Tanzania

ENTRANCE TO NDORO FALLS

Located at the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro is the beautiful countryside of surrounding Marangu.
Lush landscapes of Chagga land takes you to the entrance of a hidden waterfall - the Ngoro Falls. 
Once we passed through one of the entrances to one of many falls in the Marangu area, we had a short hike through a stunning forest. 

The falls can be accessed by foot and requires us to go 'pole pole' or 'slowly slowly' down some many simple steps sometimes steep. Banisters consisting of thick tree branches which have been edged into the hill and zigzag toward the bottom for another stunning view -the cascading waterfall. 

pole pole with Shingo

I decided against the swim but did enjoy a lovely picnic with my guide while sitting on a rock facing the falls, taking in the view of this beautiful valley.

getting refreshed before lunch

Flora
(Fungi -resembling tiny red mushrooms)

Chagga People

 ‘Neighborhood’ 'Neighbor' ‘Neighborliness’ : a relationship of friendship and mutual assistance. To have a neighbor is to have a helper on whom one can rely in all circumstances and with whom one enjoys fellowship.

Time and civilization have undermined Chagga culture. “Money becomes a substitute for brother and neighbor, dehumanizing and dissolving all mutual obligations,” Peter Beyerhaus . This is true throughout the world, of course

Acknowledge that the old relationships of clan, neighborhood, and age groups were divine gifts, and by encouraging a return to that way of life, the Chagga people can develop relationships that are more brotherly (indeed the goal is to become brothers and sisters in Christ).

The Chagga people migrated from the rest of Africa to the slopes of Kilimanjaro some 300 years ago. Bantu-speaking indigenous Africans and the third largest ethnic group in Africa. Converted to Christianity and likely why they have had easier access to education and health care over other ethnic groups. They do not speak one single language but only dialects, no swahili. Known for their irrigation system.


The traditional Chagga house was cone-shaped, with a roof thatched with dried grass or a dwelling with a roof thatched with banana leaves. The Chagga people known for their sense of enterprise and strong work ethic. Work centred around the farm and is divided by gender however now they have added these types of work especially for the younger generation of children - clerks, teachers, administrators and small-scale business activities. 


Staple food of the Chagga is bananas. Bananas used also to make beer, their main beverage. They plant a variety of crops like, banana, millet, maze, beans, and cassava. Keep cattle, goat and sheep. 


Pregnant women eat a diet of milk, sweet potatoes, fat, yams, and butter. These are considered female foods. Bananas and beer are considered male foods and are not to be eaten by pregnant women. In the photo above, we stopped along our walking route to share small bananas with these two confident little girls that came to very edge of their family property to greet us. 

Enjoyed a glass of glacier water during the tour -super clean and smooth -yum

THE CHAGGA HOMEGARDENS OF KILIMANJARO

The Chagga people were originally nomadic pastoralists and they did modernize their farming techniques over time. What makes the remarkable and well-known today is their farming technique. They have been able to maintain a sustainable and well-developed agroforestry system degradation in this area of Kilimanjaro despite ever-increasing population. The homegardens have four vegetation layers. Under a tree layer, which provides shadows, fodder, medicines, firewood and formerly also construction wood bananas are grown and under the bananas coffee trees, and under these vegetables. The area is irrigated by a network of canals fed by main furrows originating from the montaine forest. 

With higher demand for wood, low coffee prices on the world market and the introduction of coffee varieties that are sun-tolerant also endanger the traditional homegardens. In some areas of the mountain (e.g. on the eastern slopes) the trees in the banana fields are very scattered or already missing. This has far reaching consequences for biodiversity, microclimate and soil fertility.

Early Mountaineers To Reach Uhuru Peak

Very first hotel on Mt. Kilimanjaro

During my first week in Moshi, Tanzania,  Shingo ya Nyati (my guide) took me on a day trip to Marangu (which means, 'a place with too many water streams') where we came across the historical Kibo Hotel in West Marangu. This is the hotel where Prof. Hans Meyer and his crew stayed during their Pre-historic Mountain climbing expedition, which took place on the 6th of October 1889. Kibo Hotel is also one of the oldest Hotels in the Northern Zone. 

In the hotel lobby hangs a large black and white portrait of Hans Meyer, together with that of Yohana Lauwo, a native of Ashira Marangu, his first guide. The Hotel has 35 rooms and is over 120 years old now. It was first built by a German family in Association with the powerful charismatic Chagga leader, Chief (Mangi) Marealle. 1989 signified 100 years of the first European ascent.

The Hotel in itself was a temple echoing the spirit of Kilimanjaro. The Hotel is located few kilometers away from the Marangu town and is located on the slopes conviniently for easy accesibilty into town.

According to legend, the first person to ascend Kilimanjaro was King Menelik 1, the son of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba.The first Europeans to reach the summit of Kilimanjaro were Dr Hans Meyer and Ludwig Purtscheller. Today, more than 20,000 people a year attempt the climb. 


Lauwo was only eighteen years old when he led Hans Meyer and Ludwig Purtscheller to the highest point of Africa. His selection by the Mangi (Chagga chief) to be Hans Meyer's guide was accidental, but it forever changed his life. Kinyala (as he was called before becoming a guide) came from the Chagga tribe who before the Europeans came, hunted the forest elephants for ivory an sold it to the Swahili traders from the east coast. The forest also supplied them with honey, timber, medicine and Colobus monkey hides. By the time Hans Meyer arrived, Kinyala knew the forest like the back of his hand. By then colonialism had just started back in Britain and young men were being forced to construct roads. Kinyala tried to 'dodge' the draft but was caught. As a result, he was summoned for trial at Mangi Marealli's palace. Coincidentally, Hans Meyer had just arrived at the palace asking for permission to climb the mountain and guides and porters. The Mangi's wachili (advisors) spotted Kinyala, knew that he was of the Lauwo clan, and asked him to guide the expedition. The event led Kinyala (later called Mzee Lauwo) to guide Mt. Kilimanjaro climbs for more than 70 years. For his first climb, he was only wrapped in blankets. Over the years, he obtained appropriate clothing and hiking gear.

pre-trip anxiety sets in

2 weeks and 3 days to go (Miss Anxiety decides to move in in the shape of a laptop for the rest my journey...)
This really is a log about my security blanket...my Mac of course 

Since New Year's Day, I’ve been watching Youtube videos ad nauseam in preparation for my 'never say never' epic mountain climb. As soon as I’m about ready to vomit with all the queasiness brought on by routine glimpses on my Mac and office calendar, watching the date creep up on me, I stumble upon yet another video-sharing website called Vimeo.  When there's a moment of calmness  in between online searches, catching another round of the latest videos posted of the Machame Route, of packing tips, reading articles, others' blogs, I have to remind myself that, look, its only 5895 meters, (wait, I rather prefer going by feet), over 19,341 feet, so BIG DEAL!  Pshhhaw Girl! (ok, sarcasm doesn’t help the nerves).  Knowing the exact height of this mountain is also indicative of how many times I've been staring at computers. So, why am I all fired up on finding new clips of the same route? Am I really just seeing images of a few AMS-affected aliens walking on what looks like the surface of the moon? Perhaps there could be something or someone lurking behind a tree or rock that I should be looking out for as a star team player while on the climb? What I really need is to step away from the laptop then, slowly tell myself  that hey,  its just an over-glorified hill, slow-motion films that were set up at  movie ranches off the foothills of the San Fernando Valley, what snow, that’s fake snow, those aren’t real people, they are just  actors! What I really should be telling myself is to stop pressing the replay button and go jump onto an elliptical machine for goodness sake... 

Well, I’ve got a little over two weeks to go, I can see the town of Moshi at every other blink (here i go again...) I’m so ready to go (mentally not physically -can I ever be that super fit?) I can honestly think of a million and one things I should be doing right now. Meanwhile I'm sharing my precious time. Could I be glued to the computer right up until I’m boarded and seated squarely in my seat (which is ironic reading this journal again, the seat in economy class on the second flight that day made my every part below my hips paralyzed and form-fitting, I never went to visit the lavatory).  

Did I mention that Vimeo shows all videos of the Machame Route in HD and these videos won’t be accessible on the plane?  Exactly!

 Note to mom or sister - when dropping me off at the terminal, please confiscate my laptop, just like your insurance broker would throw in a sales-pitch and say  “we'll give you a peace of mind.” But in my case remember, I never buy insurance, so you both ARE my peace of mind!

Still insistent dear reader but I do wonder if my hotel in Moshi will have a computer with wifi? I better go check on that. I suspect more than likely it will. Certainly it won’t be like y experience while vacationing in Fidel Castro’s Cuba, right? HA! Well, there’s a story I won’t get into but let’s just say, I should have done my research long before assuming the internet is easily accessible worldwide, even in communist countries, no? 

TODAY: now in Moshi, I did find there was free wifi IN MY ROOM! and at excellent speed. Yes, to my current satisfaction, my laptop escaped confiscation at Pearson. How else would I blog while my adventure is still fresh in my mind?